Home | Hunts | General Info | Rates | Stories | Links | References | What to Bring | Contact Us | Video | Policy

arizona outfitters, arizona guides, arizona hunting, arizona elk hunts, arizona deer hunts, arizona desert sheep hunts, big horn sheep guides, arizona desert sheep guides, arizona elk outfitters, arizona deer guides, arizona coues deer hunts, arizona coues deer outfitters, arizona elk guides, arizona guided hunts, arizona antelope guides, arizona turkey guides, hunting in Tucson, arizona bear hunts, Tucson hunting, Tucson guides

Arizona Guided Hunts Checklist

of Items to bring on your Hunt

Make sure your hunt is paid in full at least 21 days prior Hiking Boots (w/good traction and ankle support)
Print your Hunting License AND bring Tag Thermal Underwear (late Oct through May turkey)
Weapon and Ammo or Arrows Camo Gloves (Cold Hunts)
Weapon-related Gear (sling, release, bipod, bow sling) Camo Ball Cap
Backpack or Daypack (no fanny packs, too small) Packable Rain Jacket or Pancho
Binoculars (10x recommended) Archery Wind Detector Powder (archery hunts)
Harris Bipod mounted on rifle (9-13" prone or 12.5-23") Face Net (turkey hunts)
Portable field cushion (ie.- HS Bunsaver) Beanie (Cold Months to sleep in)
Sleeping Bag (cold months: 25º rating, hot: 50º) TWEEZERS, Field First Aid Kit, Mole Skin (for blisters)
Small Camping Pillow or a pillow case to stuff w/ clothes Your Personal Medications
Travel Toiletries (soap, shampoo, t-brush, paste, etc.) Snacks/Trail Mix/Granola Bars for your daypack
Trash bag for dirty clothes, etc. Ear Plugs (in case other hunters snore!)
Unscented deodorant Vehicle cell phone charger (no house plugs in the wild!!!)
Medium-sized Towel/washcloth OPTIONAL ITEMS BELOW:
TP or wipes for daypack If driving to camp, cooler w/ICE, 60 qt deer/jav, 120 qt elk/bear)
Small flashlight/headlamp w/extra batteries Hiking stick or trekking pole
2L Bladder {try Big Zip} (We supply bulk H2O) Unscented or Sportsmans sunscreen
Camera Snake Gaiters (Aug - early Nov)
Hot Months (Aug-Oct): Bug Repellant and/or head net Rangefinder
Pocket Knife Grunt tube, calls, etc.
Camouflage Clothing and Jacket Magazines, books, games, etc. for down time
Belt Cash for gratuity
Wool-blend Hiking socks (recommend 1 pair per day!) Flip Flops or slippers for night trip to potty

Also Please Note:

- Field items should be as lightweight as possible, so you can enjoy the hunt to the fullest.  The mountain terrain is no place for heavy gear!

- Hunters driving their own vehicle or renting one should bring a cooler with lots of ice.  We are sometimes hours away from any store. If you get something, you will need to keep it cool when at camp and/or while transporting your game when you leave.

- Flying hunters that are using our butcher/taxidermist do not need to bring a cooler.  If using our butcher, you will need a UPS account so he can ship the meat.

- Gratuity: Hunting guides rely upon gratuity as part of their income.  It is a common practice to tip your guide to show your appreciation.  For people who are unfamiliar with tipping of guides, 15% of the hunt rate is customary.

- It is nice to relax around the campfire with a "cold one" after a day's hunt.  Alcohol is allowed, but due to the law and liability, we cannot provide your alcoholic beverages.  If you drink, please bring your alcohol with you.  Your alcohol shall only be consumed after legal hunting hours!

 

Packing for the flight: Please don't ask to ship your luggage, etc., to our homes prior to the hunt.  The best way to pack is to buy an extra large rolling duffel bag instead of a suitcase. A good backpacking sleeping bag will fit nicely into one of these duffels and will provide plenty of room for your clothing and other gear. Bring carry-on items in your hunting backpack.

  

 

Equipment Recommendations, Brand Names, and Other Info

Each season I am asked by many hunters which brand or type of a certain item I recommend.  As with anything, it is important to buy the highest quality equipment that you can afford.  This eliminates having to purchase that item again or more often than you would like.  I also strongly recommend buying items of minimal weight.  This cuts back on fatigue while in the field, allowing you to go that extra mile.  It is not essential to your hunt that you have these particular brands, but below are several things I have tried in the field and recommend.

Note: I am not trying to change anyone's opinion or debate any methods or items.  This is just basic info that is intended to hopefully increase your odds of going home with something other than "shattered dreams." 

 

  • Binoculars - If you are to own only one set of binoculars, the 10X42 would be the best all-around size.  Binocular sizes that work well for open country hunts (such as coues, mule deer, antelope, bear, sheep) would be: 10X42, 12X50 or 15X56.  For forest hunts (such as archery elk and turkey): 8X30, 10X32, or 10X42.  Swarovski, and Leica are superior European glasses that bring in much light and detail.  I highly recommend them.  If you don't want to spend $1200-$3200 on a pair of these fine European optics, the higher end models of Vortex (such as Razor, Vipor, Talon, Kaibab, $500-$1400) are great binoculars.  

  • Riflescope - European optics companies produce great binoculars, but my recommended riflescope is the Great Ol' American brand Leupold.  The reason is due to their ability to take a beating!  These are tough scopes and will usually not lose zero with a bad mishap.  I have seen Leupolds take a tumble down a mountain, end-over-end, after which the hunter picks up the weapon only to kill an animal at nearly 500 yards!  I have witnessed this event with every other brand, even the $2500 European scopes, and I cannot say the same for them.  European scopes seem to have great, clear glass, but the mechanics suck when it comes to taking a beating!  Scopes with variable power settings are a must.  A 4-12X is minimum.  A 3-9X is only good for javelina, cow or muzzleloader hunts when shooting distance are typically closer than 250 yards, but 3-9x is too small for big canyon hunting of any other species.  If you have ever looked at an animal over 250 yards on 9 power, you know what I mean.  Leupold Model Vari-X III in 6.5-20X or 4.5-14X will suit your needs for any species at any distance.  If you are coming on a bighorn sheep, coues or bear hunt, a 40mm objective will save weight in this rougher terrain.  Please note: a scope sunshade often helps when shots are uphill or towards the sun.  Also, always sight in and practice with your variable power scope on the highest power setting! 

  • Bipod - It is highly recommended that you mount a bipod on your rifle.  Don't skimp and buy an "off the wall" brand thinking they are all the same.  I have used most bipods on the market.  Most cheap brands come apart after a few uses in the rugged mountains or are designed poorly and wobble.  Any "play" is magnified down range.  Buy a Harris Bipod in either of these two models: 9-13" or 12.5"-23".  Both are low enough to use a rear rest and are lighter than the swivel versions.  The 12.5-23" version is good for those of you who complain about a kinked neck while shooting in the prone position.  Harris Bipods can be purchased online at Amazon.com, ebay, or MidwayUSA.com

  • Sleeping Bag -  All hunters need to bring a sleeping bag.  We do not supply sheets, blankets, pillows, or sleeping bags.  However, we do supply a cot with a cot pad for each hunter to sleep on.  Sleeping bags come in all shapes and sizes (I prefer a rectangle as opposed to the mummy), but what is important is the thermal rating and compactness (packing in your luggage for the plane ride).  Our cold month hunts in November through April may be spent in wall tents or Kodiak canvas tents.  Outside nighttime temperatures may get as low as 10 degrees, with inside tent temperatures around 50 with the heater on.  If the heater goes out in the middle of the night (and it more than likely will), you need to be prepared.   I recommend a 25-30 degree rating for those cold weather hunts.  During mild weather hunts in August through October, I recommend a 50 degree rating.  If flying, a backpacking sleeping bag is your best option.  Slumberjack, Eureka, REI, Kuiu, and Cabelas have a line of compact backpacking sleeping bags at various temperature ratings that fit nicely into your luggage.  Also, don't forget a small travel pillow or Coleman camp pillow.  These stuff into a sack to save room for luggage packing.  If trying to save even more room in your luggage, you can instead bring an empty pillow case and stuff it with your hunting clothes to act as a pillow.  

  • Beanie - A beanie is great for keeping your head warm while sleeping during cold weather hunts.  It eliminates the need to bury your head under your sleeping bag and it actually keeps your whole body warmer while sleeping.

  • Tweezers - Every plant in the desert can either poke, stick or jab you, often leaving stickers and thorns throughout your body.  Tweezers are essential in getting these thorns out if they happen to occur, especially the fine cactus needles.  It seems like the most favorable activity for our hunters during downtime is to sit around camp and pull out thorns...

  • Blisters - For those who are prone to blisters, mole skin is a great remedy.  Also, the small pads for corns and callous by Dr. Scholl's work well around blisters too. There are also gel-type blister bandages on the market.  Many hunters have quit hunting or gone home early because of severe blisters.

  • Snake Gaiters - If you are coming on a hunt during August through early November, there is a slight chance that you will see rattlesnakes (they are usually dormant during any other hunting month).  Rattlesnakes usually are not a threat if you don't bother them, but snake gaiters can give you the "piece of mind" you need while hiking through their habitat.  The lightest and most versitile brand is Turtle Skins, but there are also some less expensive versions on Amazon.

  • Daypack - Most hunters come with packs too small.... One reason to have a good-sized pack is to handle all the layers of clothing that you will be peeling off during the day.  Remember that mornings are often 40 degrees cooler than noontime temps, which means you will be layering.  Another reason to have a decent pack is that, if you tag an animal, you will need to put the guide's gear into your pack (and they have a lot of stuff) as he packs out the game.  If it is a large animal such as a bear, elk, or mule deer, you will need to help pack out the game.  You do not need a giant 7-day backpack, but a good daypack with a waste strap for putting the weight above the hips and not all on the shoulders is best.  You should have a mid-sized pack with a capacity around 2500 - 3500cu-in.  One good backpack manufacturer that is a bit expensive, but has strong, ultra lightweight designs are the packs by Kuiu. These are by far the most reliable and most thought-out hunting packs on the market! The frame is lightweight carbon fiber and stronger than steel!  There are various Kuiu backpack configurations to choose from, but I use the Kuiu Ultra 3000, since it is only 3 lbs! The Ultra 6000 is only 3lbs 9oz.  Visit www.Kuiu.com.  A heavier, but also a good backpack manufacturer is Eberlestock. Their backpacks allow you to slide your gun into a pouch or scabbard and also secure a bow on the pack.  This eliminates fatigue from carrying a weapon on your shoulders or in your hands on a long hike through rough, canyon terrain.  There are many Eberlestock configurations to choose from, but you don't need anything larger than 3000 cu-in.  The Eberlestock X1A1 model is perfect for any Western hunt.  The Eberlestock J34 model is a bit larger and heavier, but also a great pack.  The Eberlestock X2 with addition of a side scabbard works great as well.  Visit www.eberlestock.com.  Cabelas has a couple economical, yet fair backpacks, as well.  Turkey hunters can bring a turkey vest instead of the backpack, if they choose. 

  • Water Transport - As many as three-hundred people die in the Arizona desert per year due to severe dehydration.  Having enough water in your pack is very important in this arid environment, especially after the kill.  Once you kill, you just doubled or even tripled your water requirement in order to help pack out the extra weight.  THIS IS THE DESERT!  There are no streams to drink from if you are out of water.  If coming during our warm months of August through October, a minimum of two liters should be taken into the field at all times, even if you don't think you need it.  I don't mean two little drinking water bottles that you buy in the case, but two LITERS.  We provide bulk jugs of drinking water so that you can fill your 2 or 3 Liter bladder.  The number one recommended water bladder is the "Big Zip" by Platypus.  It's special features include: a very large opening for easy refilling, a quick-release hose, a shut-off valve, and because it is made of a special plastic, there is absolutely no bad taste that you get with other brands. It also has an anti-microbial that eliminates mold/mildew growth.  Camelback brand bladders are less-to-be-desired and often have a bad, plastic taste that never seems to go away.  Anyways, we have seen many hunters dump out all their water while hiking because it became too heavy.  Also, many hunters say, "I didn't drink all my water that I packed yesterday, so I'm only bringing half today."  These are big mistakes!  On several occasions I have rescued hunters and even guides in the early stages of heat stroke or severe dehydration.  It's hard for the rescuers to land a helicopter in the steep terrain that we hunt!  Your extraction bill could reach into the tens of thousands of dollars!  This can be prevented by staying hydrated and packing enough water.  The humidity in Arizona and Southern New Mexico is typically 5%, which can dry you out in minutes!  Some don't even know they are dehydrated until it's too late.  If you are worried about the added weight of water, try to shave off a few pounds elsewhere. 

  • Hiking Boots - Most AZ and NM terrain is very rocky.  Get a boot with good ankle support and deep traction lugs.  Lowa probably offers the best long-lasting, yet most comfortable hiking boots on the market.  A couple to look at are their Tibet and Ticam models.  A lighter, yet low version is their Camino.  The Meindl Alaska Hunters or the Meindl "Denali" are both tough, stiff German mountaineering boots with a heavy duty Vibram sole, extreme ankle support and durability that will last for many years. The average hunter that goes out a half dozen times per year, can probably make these two boots last a lifetime!  Meindl's are available at Cabelas.  If you don't have much time for break-in, my top suggestion for you are the more flexible, lightweight Meindl Ultralight Hunters or the Danner Pronghorns.  They come in models with insulation for cold hunts and no insulation for warm hunts (such as bear and early deer).  Cabelas and Rocky also offer quality boots.

  • Hiking Socks - Wool blend socks, whether hunting in the hot months of August/September or the cold of January, are essential in keeping your feet from being too moist and helps to eliminate blisters.  Please, for the sake of the other hunters in your tent, bring one pair per day

  • Walking Stick or Trekking Pole - A walking stick or trekking pole will help to stabilize you on the loose ground or steep slopes.  Most models are compact, lightweight and telescopic, collapsing to under 25".  Make sure to use the rubber tip, as the metal tip clanking on the ground scares away game on a regular basis. Some hiking sticks have a V-yoke to act as a shooting stick.  This can be a very useful tool when getting a "surprise" offhand shot.  A very lightweight, sturdy trekking pole is Black Diamond Carbon with the addition of a rubber tip.  

  • Clothing - There are many brands on the market, but what is important is the material they are made of.  High performance hunting clothing is not 100% Cotton.  Try a polyester/cotton blend or, better yet, a 100% poly material.  Long underwear is recommended on any hunt from the beginning of November through the April turkey season.  These also come in poly materials, which will actually pull sweat away, keeping you drier and warmer than cotton.  If you want a really good set of hunting clothes for our desert hunts that will repel water, will not fade, and will last more than one hunting season, Kuiu and Sitka Gear are my recommendations.   www.kuiu.com or  www.sitkagear.com  Unfortunately, Sitka doesn't produce a good camo pattern for our Ponderosa pine forest hunts (elk, turkey), but their open-country pattern is great for our desert hunts.  Kuiu's Verde pattern seems to be more versatile and can work well for both forest hunts and desert hunts.

  • Camouflage Pattern - The Camo pattern to bring depends upon which type of hunt you will be on; either a desert hunt or a forest hunt.  Desert hunts such as bighorn sheep, bear, deer, javelina, and antelope require lighter camo patterns like Natural Gear, Mossy Oak Brush, King's Desert Shadow, Kuiu Verde and Vias patterns, or Sitka Gear's Optifade Open Country.  Most colors in the desert during hunting season are light shades of gray/brown.  Stay away from the really bright "prairie" patterns though.  You'll stand out like a sore thumb using the prairie patterns.  Forest hunts such as Elk and Turkey require darker camo patterns like Mossy Oak New Break-Up or Real Tree AP and even Kuiu Verde.  

  • Portable Field Seat Cushion - This may not sound too important, but when you are glassing and sitting on a cold, jagged boulder for hours, it is invaluable.  The comfort a foam pad brings will help you be more patient.  Make sure it is not too big or it will be cumbersome to carry in or on your pack.  Try Hunter's Specialties Bunsaver brand.  Don't bring a field chair unless you don't mind carrying the added weight or bulk.

  • 12-Volt Vehicle Cell Phone Charger - WE DO NOT HAVE 110v WALL PLUGS IN THE DESERT OR MOUNTAINS!!! We are not hooked up to an RV park either.  If you really need to re-charge your cell during the hunt, please bring a 12-volt vehicle cell phone charger (cigarette lighter plug) or USB plug.  The guides will let you plug into their vehicle or 12 volt trailer battery when you need charging.  I recommend turning off your cell phone until you need to make a call.  We don't hunt near towers and typically have poor reception.  If you keep the phone on during the daytime, it will search for a tower, thus, drain your battery within hours.  Note: some areas we hunt have no cell phone service.  On the Gila National Forest of NM and some parts of the Apache-Sitgreaves of AZ, we have no service the entire time we are there.  If hunting these areas and contact with the outside world is important to you, I recommend renting a satellite phone for your personal use.  

  • Rifle Caliber Selection - Basically, choose a caliber that you can handle and shoot accurately without flinching.  If that means getting a muzzlebrake installed, than do it!  We all know hunters that use big magnums, but miss everything they shoot at because they flinch and are afraid of the gun.  Again, a muzzlebrake will do wonders!  To the flinchers: Muzzlebrake, muzzlebrake, muzzlebrake!  Don't worry about your guide's ears.  He's totally aware of muzzlebrakes and will usually cover his ears.  For hunters that like to use different calibers for different species, here is a range of calibers to use for each species:  Javelina - .243, up to .30-06;  Coues and Mule Deer, Sheep, Antelope - .25-06 up to .300 Magnum;  Bull Elk and Bear- 7mm Magnum up to .338 Magnum.   If I were use one cartridge for all rifle hunting, it would be either one of the .300 Magnums or Short Magnums, with a KDF or Gentry Muzzlebrake of course.  These cartridges can be loaded and used for all North American big game species from a 45 pound javelina to a 2500 pound bull bison.  They are also superior for long range shooting in high winds across canyons.  Another important point that I must mention is that you should have a weapon that is as lightweight as possible.  Rifles with heavy varmint or target barrels might be nice from a bench or while prairie dog shooting, but the mountains of the Southwest are no place for a heavy gun!

  • Ammunition - Just like anything, don't buy the cheapest ammo.  Good loaded rifle ammo usually costs over $50.00 per box.  The more expensive Federal Premiums, Remington Premier or Winchester Supreme loaded ammunitions are very accurate and precise.  They can be found online at Cabelas or MidwayUSA.  I recommend a bullet with a high ballistic coefficient.  Ballistic Tips, Nosler Accubonds, and Barnes Tipped TSX each have a high ballistic coefficient for long range.  The Tipped Triple Shock X Bullet has nearly 100% weight retention and superior pass through.  Nosler Accubonds and Hornady Interbond or GMX are also good bonded, polymer tipped bullets designed for long range performance.  Nosler Ballistic Tips or Hornady SST are very accurate and have excellent terminal performance (shock value), but not recommended for elk and bears.  Stay away from Partitions.  Nosler Partitions will stay together, but are designed for closer ranges and we see them dive like a cannon ball at longer ranges.  More than likely, you will not get any close shots in this open country anyway!  Important: sight in with the ammo you will be using on the hunt.  I see many hunters buy a cheap box of ammo to sight in their gun and use a totally different load on the hunt.  All ammo shoots differently and is magnified at long ranges.  

  • Bullet Weight - You want to get the best trajectory and energy transfer for the cartridge you are shooting, which often means choosing the correct bullet weight.  Flat trajectory is very important in this open country.  For instance, you wouldn't want to hunt open country elk using a .30-06 loaded with 200 grain bullets.  It seems logical to use as heavy a bullet as possible on a big animal, but it doesn't work that way with long range hunting.  The 200gr .30-06 bullet might have high energy coming out of the muzzle, but it will have terrible trajectory at long distance, unlike a flatter shooting 165 grain .30-06 bullet would.  If you look at the charts of the offered bullet weights for a particular cartridge, the middle weight will more than likely give you the best trajectory and knockdown power at long range.  The key is performance at long range.  For instance:  a .243 should get the best long range performance with a 90-100gr bullet, a .270 should get the best long range performance with a 130-140gr, a 7mm Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 150-160gr, a .30-06 should get the best long range performance with a 165gr, a .300 Winchester Magnum or .300 Short Magnums should get the best performance with a 165gr, a .300 Remington Ultra Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 180gr, a .325 Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 200gr, and a .338 Magnum should get the best long range performance with a 225gr. You will be most successful if you use a middle weight bullet that is placed "well" than using a heavy bullet that is placed at the animal's feet!  Also, middle weight bullets produce less recoil.  For instance, if using a 300 magnum, a 165 grain load will produce up to 30% less "kick" than a 200 grain load.  This can improve accuracy, especially for you flinchers!

  • Archery Broadhead Selection -  Two types of broadhead designs to choose from are the fixed blade and the expandable.  The topic of Fixed Blade vs Expandable is a highly debated subject and the conclusion will never be "Written in Stone"...The most efficient broadheads for you are those that fly accurately AND produce a massive wound channel. If you prefer to use a fixed head, any brand with larger than a 1¼" cutting diameter that flies exactly like your field points at 60 yards or beyond should be used.  The G5's, Shuttle T, Muzzy, and Whack 'Em seem to work well.  If you prefer to use mechanical heads, a big 2"+ opening 2-blade broadhead like Rage Hypodermic, NAP Killzone or Spitfire, Swhacker, or similar opening broadheads are very effective.  Two-blade Expandables are the most popular type of head in the Southwest, since far shots are the norm in this open terrain.  We do NOT recommend 3-blade expandables though! Expandables are designed to fly like field points, which is needed on shots out at 60 yards and beyond.  Rage 2-blade Hypodermics fly true and produce the biggest wound channels we have ever seen.  They have greatly improved their design over the past several years and now offer tougher models with collars to hold the blades instead of an o-ring and they are made of all stainless steel (Hypodermics).  Many poorly hit animals that would have gotten away with a fixed head, were recovered when our hunters were using a giant diameter 2-blade mechanical head.  If you accidently poke an animal in the guts with a little 1.25" fixed head, you probably won't find him and you'll leave the hunt with shattered dreams.  If you accidentally gut shoot an animal with a giant 2-blade mechanical, the slice expands as he runs and the guts start spilling out, getting caught on cactus and brush, slowing him down and ultimately allowing us to recover him.  You can only imagine how many poorly hit animals we witness throughout every season...

  • All Guides and Outfitters "cringe" when they see a client using a GPS.  The guide will be with you while in the field, which eliminates the need to "find your way back" with a GPS.  If you are afraid that your guide will get you lost (highly unlikely), you can bring one for emergency purposes only.  Please refrain from using a GPS while on your hunt.  Marking our spots will make your guide paranoid and you will soon find yourself in a mediocre hunting area.  It is unethical to return to a guide's hard-earned hunting spots or tell others of their location.  Just think, if you booked a hunt with me and someone that I guided from the previous season showed up in a spot that you were supposed to hunt. You would be very disappointed!  Or, you showed your favorite fishing hole to someone, they brought a bunch of buddies and fished out the hole. You see them show up year after year crowding out your spot.  You would have every right to be upset.  Please be an ethical hunter and refrain from telling others or showing up to our spots after the hunt.  

  • Weight of Gear - I strongly urge big game hunters to bring field items that are LIGHTWEIGHT, without compromising quality of course.   If you can save a few ounces on each item, it can add up to pounds and will be felt (or not felt) at the end of the day. Bringing items into the field like: rifles with varmint barrels or heavy wooden stocks, big spotting scopes, big tripods, field chairs, sand bags, video cameras, big SLR cameras with telephoto lenses, sidearms, multiple boxes of ammo, giant Rambo knives, axes, bricks, tire irons, etc., is a common mistake.  You can easily reduce the weight of most modern rifles (especially Rem 700) by 1 to 2.5 pounds by doing the following: use a Talley machined aluminum scope mount, replace the steel bolt shroud with an aluminum bolt shroud, replace the steel magazine follower with an aluminum follower, 40mm objective lens riflescope, a poly or nylon sling, and of course, an ultra light synthetic stock.  Bell and Carlson makes a lightweight stock around 2 pounds or McMillan makes an ultra lightweight stock around 22 ounces!  If you are looking to buy a new lightweight mountain rifle, the Tikka T3 Lite is an economical, yet very accurate option.  Another lightweight mountain rifle is the Kimber 8400 Montana, but a bit more expensive.  Since mountain rifles are so light, having a muzzlebrake installed is highly recommended.  Get a KDF or Gentry muzzlebrake.  Also, after the first hike, you will figure out that there are things in your pack that you don't need.  Unfortunately, it always takes that first hike for people to figure this out.  If there is anything in your pack that you don't really need (within reason), then leave it behind.  Saving weight reduces fatigue while in the field, allowing you to go that extra mile, thus, increasing your odds of harvesting a real trophy and having a more enjoyable hunt! 

  • Temperature/Weather - The climate in Arizona and New Mexico is very arid and dry with the humidity often being around 5%.  There is nothing to hold in the heat.  This means the fluctuation between morning and afternoon temps could be drastic.  Morning temps, as a general rule, are usually 35-40 degrees different from afternoon temps.  That means if it is 65 degrees as a daytime high, the nighttime low will usually drop to about 25 or 30.  The sun is intense during the day, but once the sun goes down, it could get quite bone chilling and happen very quickly.  Therefore, we recommend layering.  Also, the wind will typically blow about 10-30mph for at least half of your hunt, so expect temps to feel cooler than they really are.  Rain and snow are not normal, but could happen on your hunt.  Also, don't expect the forecast for any of the 3 major cities (Tucson, Phoenix or Flagstaff) to be the same as our hunt area.  We hunt either in the mountains or near them.  There are no forcasts for our hunting areas.  Mountains have a different microclimate than the lowland cities. There is no way to get an accurate forecast for where we hunt since there are usually no cities nearby.  But, if it calls for rain in either of the 3 cities, just assume it will rain (warm months) or snow (cold months) in the mountains.  Below is an average temperature table for the particular species/season you will be hunting (wind chill is not factored into these numbers):

Month/Species Low High
January Javelina/Deer 20 60
February Javelina 30 70
April Turkey 25 70
May Turkey 45 80
August Bear 60 90
September Prong 50 85
September Elk 40 75
October Bear 50 85
October Deer 50 80
October Elk 35 70
Nov. Deer 45 75
Nov. Elk 20 60
Dec. Elk 10 50
Dec. Deer 20 60
Dec. Sheep 30 65

 


Home | Hunts | General Info | Rates | Stories | Links | References | What to Bring | Contact Us | Video | Policy